Foodspotting

Good morning, Kyoto!

Ask a Japanese person what they think of when they hear the word モーニング (morning) and chances are the word evokes images of a simple western-style breakfast in a friendly neighborhood coffee shop like Takagi Coffee. With a bit of an old-fashioned diner atmosphere, and the aroma of fresh-roasted coffee, this is a great place to start your day. For breakfast, they offer a variety of “morning” sets, but you can’t go wrong with the “rich morning”. For just ¥650, you get scrambled eggs, sausage, toast, potato salad, and coffee (or other drink). You can also buy their coffee beans in bulk for that fresh-brewed taste at home. For lunch, they’ve got quite an extensive menu, with lots of sandwiches, one-plate specials, and curry dishes to choose from. The one drawback for some might be the unfortunate lack of a non-smoking section.

Takagi Coffee
Open: 7am–7pm • Price Range: Breakfast ¥500–¥700; Lunch ¥800–¥1,000 • takagicoffee.jugem.jp • Access: Kyoto Subway Karasuma line, Shijo Stn; Hankyu Kyoto line, Karasuma Stn; about a 5-minute walk south from exit 5 (Karasuma location) or exit 6 (Takatsuji location).

Superb Spanish-style Seafood

There are a few Bellota Concha restaurants around Kyoto, but this one, which takes its name from the small Bay of La Concha in northern Spain, features heavily on the seafood traditions of the area. The friendly staff will happily explain the various catches of the day and how they are prepared, though one of the larger whole grilled fish will set you back at least ¥2,000. A personal recommendation from their regular menu is the squid ink paella. Appearances are deceiving as the black squid ink makes this dish look like it’s been left in a burning oven for a few days. One bite, however, and you’ll experience a wonderful balance of flavors in each grain of perfectly-cooked rice. While Bellota Concha might not be the cheapest place in town, the quality of each dish doesn’t disappoint, and the cozy intimate atmosphere is great for small groups.

Bellota Concha
Lunch: 11:30am–3pm; Dinner: 5pm– midnight • Price Range: Lunch: around ¥1,000; Dinner: around ¥3,500 • bellota.jp/tominokoji • Access: Kyoto Subway Karasuma line, Shijo Stn; Hankyu Kyoto line, Karasuma Stn; about a 7-minute walk east of exit 3.

Good things come in small restaurants

Suzuya is a tiny, counter-only place specializing in もつ煮 (motsu-ni), a dish consisting of cow intestines simmered in a miso-based broth. While there are many ways in which offal is used in traditional Japanese dishes, this is definitely one of the more approachable dishes for the less adventurous. Each bite will melt in your mouth and the dish naturally pairs well with beer, sake, or whiskey. Suzuya’s reasonablypriced menu is limited, but that just makes it easier to decide what to order. Homemade Japanese pickles, slowcooked oden, and charcoal-grilled beef and vegetables are a must and will help keep the drinks flowing. Also, be sure to look for their まかないカレー (makanai curry). Makanai is the word for a special creation that a chef makes for the staff using whatever is at hand, which sounds like leftovers, but tastes like a first-class treat.

Good things come in small restaurants

Suzuya is a tiny, counter-only place specializing in もつ煮 (motsu-ni), a dish consisting of cow intestines simmered in a miso-based broth. While there are many ways in which offal is used in traditional Japanese dishes, this is definitely one of the more approachable dishes for the less adventurous. Each bite will melt in your mouth and the dish naturally pairs well with beer, sake, or whiskey. Suzuya’s reasonablypriced menu is limited, but that just makes it easier to decide what to order. Homemade Japanese pickles, slowcooked oden, and charcoal-grilled beef and vegetables are a must and will help keep the drinks flowing. Also, be sure to look for their まかないカレー (makanai curry). Makanai is the word for a special creation that a chef makes for the staff using whatever is at hand, which sounds like leftovers, but tastes like a first-class treat.

SuzuyaOpen: Tues–Sun, 4pm–11pm • Price Range: ¥2,000–¥3,000 • tabelog.com/kyoto/A2602/A260201/26016033 • Access: Kyoto Subway Karasuma line, Shijo Stn; Hankyu Kyoto line, Karasuma Stn; about a 5-minute walk east of exit 3.