Kemari matsuri
Nov 3
Tanzan-jinja Shrine, Nara
 The game of kemari is a form of football that was played widely in shrine grounds, and was particularly popular in Japan’s Heian Period. The Kemari festival is held biannually at this shrine to commemorate the historical fact that former governor Fujiwara Kamatari and Prince Nakano Oe–who played very important roles in Taika Reforms–first met at a kemari game during the 7th century. The game is quite simple: players try to keep a deerskin ball aloft by using their feet, knees and shoulders. There is no victory or defeat; players are expected to conform to the games manners to make it enjoyable for everyone, whilst striving for an attractive style.
Time: 11am. Getting there: JR Sakurai line, Sakurai stn, bus to Tanzan-jinja. Admission: usual shrine fee: adults ¥500, children ¥250. Tel: 0744-49-0001.
Shinno matsuri
Nov 22 & 23
Sukunahikona-jinja Shrine, Osaka
The Shinno matsuri is one of the most important annual events on Osaka’s festival calendar. Sukunahikona-jinja is a tiny shrine situated in the pharmaceutical company district Doshomachi. Long ago, when a plague of cholera spread across Osaka, the merchants in Doshomachi distributed free medicines. The pills worked miraculously on the disease. The papier-mâché tiger, which was given out with the pills as a lucky charm, has now become the symbol of the shrine. The tiny shrine is usually tranquil, but with the hundreds of stalls that line the streets and the throngs of people amalgamating, Doshomachi should be a hive of atmosphere.
Time: from 9am. Getting there: Subway Sakaisuji line, Kitahama stn. Admission: free. Tel: 06-6231-6958.
Kansai Festival Listings
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Kanikaku matsuri
Gion Shirakawa, Kyoto
Nov 8
Kanikaku matsuri marks the anniversary of Isamu Yoshii, a Japanese poet and playwright active in the Taisho and the Showa Period who was particularly fond of the Gion nightlife district in Kyoto; in light of this, Maiko and Geisha in full dress take part in the ceremony–a golden photo opportunity!
Time: From 11am. Getting there: Keihan Railway Shijo stn, 5min walk. Admission: free. Tel: 075-561-1115.
Hayahachiman Taisai
Hayahachiman-jinja Shrine, Wakayama
Nov 3
This annual festival is registered as a cultural asset of Wakayama. The day’s proceedings involve yabusame (Japanese archery) and uma-kake (horse racing), which are held in order to please the god enshrined at Hayahachiman. Running horses dressed in colourful regalia are worth watching.
Time: From noon. Getting there: JR Kisei Honsen line, Tanabe stn, bus to Tajiribashi. Admission: free. Tel: 0739-23-1736.
Yakkoburi
Fukudennji Temple, Shiga
Nov 15
Held biannually in May and November, Yakkoburi depicts a wedding procession of a court noble from the Edo period. It is re-enacted exactly the way the ceremony would have been held in the past, with a group of footmen wearing navy blue happi coats and gaiters walking slowly along to a chorus.
Time: From 1pm. Getting there: JR Hokuriku Honsen line, Tamura stn, 10min walk. Admission: free. Tel: 0749-58-2227.
Ningyo Kuyo Matsuri
Mondo Yakujin Tokoji Temple, Hyogo
Nov 19
People bring their dolls (which supposedly hold special memories of childhood) to this Buddhist event and bid them farewell. There will be a procession of women in furisode formal kimono, with antique dolls put on display inside the temple.
Time: From 10am. Getting there: Hankyu Railway Imazu line, Mondoyakujin stn, 8min walk. Admission: free. Tel: 0798-51-0268.
Hitaki Matsuri
Kurumazaki-jinja Shrine, Kyoto
Nov 23
This fire burning ritual is held in a style adhering to old arrangements. Porridge will be cooked in front of the shrine altar to please the god of the kitchen, with pieces of wood which people write wishes on thrown into a bonfire. Why don’t you come and make a wish?
Time: From 1pm. Getting there: Keifuku railway Arashiyama line, Kurumazaki-jinja stn. Admission: free. Tel: 075-861-0039.
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